I’m going, going, back, back, to Cali, Cali…

So here it is Tuesday, and I hope all enjoyed a marvelous Christmas. I was in Sacramento…far from the sea…but enjoying tidings of good will and joy from my kindred ones. And yet returned to Southern California at a fortuitous time to be blessed by a wonderful gift from the North Pacific…clean swell as far as the eye can see. I love winter! On a side note, all postings unless otherwise noted, will be available under the “Buy Prints” section of the site including shots not posted on the Blog so be sure to check there if for shots if you are so inclined, they will be listed by location and date shot. (This portion is run through my wife and I’s portraiture/wedding/whatever photo site, dna wylie photography, so don’t be scared) Also available are some select images that were requested from the sessions earlier this month, around the 10th I think – you know who you are! Those are in their own folder! Enjoy.

Let’s start things of right with a slideshow of a brilliant backside barrel by Cody Brady.


I love this wave…

He does too!

Mutants among us.

With no locals out, it kind of became a super grom session.

…which would explain these antics!


Otro vez!

So my favorite surf movie of all time, A Broke Down Melody, has this extra footage in the bonus material called “Look at What the Light Did Now,” which is exactly what I dub this and the next few shots.

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Sunset and Pipeline

New Northwest swell is filling in on the heals of a funky Northeast one. Great conditions here on the North Shore…enjoy the shots!

Nathan Fletcher



Maya Gabiera

Sunny Garcia pulls a huge bottom turn.

Once I got out of the water it was over to Pipeline…it was very inconsistent and not what I had hoped for so I got some land shots. The pics are a little deceiving as these were just about the only good waves that came through in the 2 hours I was there!

The old man and the sea…

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Swell has backed off and winds are up…junky conditions here on the North Shore. I am not too disappointed though because the port is getting fixed and hopefully sent back today so I can’t get in the water anyways. I was able to pick up a replacement camera in town so I am able to shoot with my zoom, but that land stuff is for the birds if you ask me. So for this post I thought I would share some shots from before the housing broke and from my trip to town to pick up the camera.

Bruce Irons

Kamehameha Hwy

My favorite burger joint anywhere, hands down, Teddy’s.

Sunrise from Diamond Head.

Waiola General Store has the best shave ice!

Seared Ahi with Papaya Salsa – worth the special trip to North Shore Grinds in Palolo.



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It Finally Happened…

Yep, I busted the housing…drowned the camera and sunk the lens. I have two (hopefully three) pieces of good news though. 1)The memory card was functional after I clambered out of the water 2) Only a portion of the housing busted so I don’t have to replace the whole thing. Hopefully it will be repaired and back in my hands by Saturday – we shall see. It happened like this. I spent the morning shooting Backdoor at about 5-6 feet Hawaiian style and was feeling very comfortable. Somehow I got a little too far inside and a larger rogue wave came in and when I went to dive under it, there was only about 3 feet of water over the reef. It ripped the buckle of my helmet, smashed my elbow and shoulder, and of course smashed the housing. The weird thing is that my helmet came off but after I hit my head against the reef, there is a gash on the back of the helmet that would have been on my skull. Guess I will be shooting from land for the next few days…I was able to pick up a replacement body which will be reimbursed by insurance. Fun times on the island! Shots were almost worth this headache!

This one is for the wife so she knows I am wearing my helmet! (which actually saved my a trip to the hospital today)

Good Morning…


This is the view to Pipeline proper


Dave Rasatavich

Probably the best shot I have come away with this trip – love it.

No it’s not a piece of abstract art, my palm covering the hole in the dome port before the water inside fryed it all.

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Hawaii Tuesday

I am exhausted after a day of shooting and swimming, but I think that I came away with some winners. The Billabong Pipe Masters semi-finals and finals ran today, there was some great surfing. I snuck in a session at Off the Wall during the semis and then shot from land during the final between Taj and Kelly. The waves actually were pretty junky by then though. Enjoy.




OTW – Dustin Barca

OTW – My favorite shot thus far from the trip!

Two frames later – so clear da water!

Kelly Slater and Jerry Lopez surfed a heat together…really good vibes.

Jamie O’brian

Bruce Irons during the expression session…never seen anyone fly this high before.

Taj in the final.

Kelly in the final.

Then for the evening session I took a step back and used the 50 mm for some shots from the channel at Pipeline.

Someone’s sneaking out the backdoor…

I’m not sure what the conditions are going to be like for the next few days…if there is surf to be shot, I will shoot it and it will be posted.

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N. Shore

Hello all. I have made it! Got a lickin’ at Pipe this evening, figured out the currents there the hard way! Anyhow, no shots at the moment, they will be on tomorrow. Looks like the Pipe Masters Semi Finals and Finals will be tomorrow!

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The Swell Hits

The forecast called from rain. We got beautiful back lighting with not a cloud in the sky. This one was a “super sess”, big thanks to all the guys out there charging hard! One of the shots of Johnny Noris made it to Surfline’s Welcome to Winter swell story!

The afternoon started off with bodyboarders…

…but the lineup switched to surfers once things started looking better. Johnny Noris 1/3



Danny Connor…I thought water only got this clear on remote tropical islands.

Why grab rail? Johnny Noris.


This is Johnny Noris again, pushing through a chandeliering section with the poise and majesty of a Liger.These next two are my favorites from the sequence above.

The amazing thing was that the next wave of the set was just as incredible as Eric Vanstrum demonstrates.

So shacked you can only see his board!


Thanks again for all who were out there pulling into some truly epic barrels! North Shore on Monday!

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The Rock

I think that I found the only sliver of good weather in all of Southern California. After the gnarly storm rolled through this week, today it cleared up from about 11 am on, so that’s when I was in the water. Surfline called it a 6-10 ft. swell, felt that big, I definitely had my hands full dodging some bombs.


Cute little barrel.

Russell Fawley.

I like the lip on the far right in this shot…Tyler Eick.

Check out the fins locked in the wave on this above/under shot, Tyler Eick

Session favorite! Jared Cassidy.

The big waves swinging wide gave me the opportunity to get some shots from the inside and behind – Unknown.


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Count Down to Hawaii

It’s official, I am off to Hawaii next Monday (14th)! So keep checking in on me as I am posting shots from my sessions on the North Shore!

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